make


Advertisement

    goop mag #9

    The more mass, virtual, and disparate our culture, the more (I think) we look for provenance, care and thoughtfulness anywhere we can find it. Thus, the spate of gorgeous hyperlocal restaurants, bringing the 'farm to table' concept even closer - to the kitchen garden. Vegetables never tasted so good.

    Also, a bit of a steer on taking the kids to art museums, a scrapbook, and cool gear from ECOALF, a Spanish brand we discovered that fashions things we want out of recycled stuff.

    Love,

    gp

    This week’s goop collaboration

    http://www.goop.com/shop/
    Advertisement

    Hyperlocal

    The farm-to-table concept has been around for a while, but many restaurants these days are taking it to the next level by growing their own produce, and in some cases, raising their own livestock. Veggies picked just steps from the kitchen mean a fresher plate, both in actual ingredients and concept, letting the harvest drive and vary the menu. Below are a few impressive destinations that are not only using food grown on the premises, but are really unique dining experiences in their own right.

    De Kas

    Amsterdam | Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3 1097 DE | +31 20 462 4562

    De Kas is located in an old greenhouse, dating back to 1926, which was slated to be demolished but instead turned into this stunning restaurant and nursery. A bit out of the city center in Frankendael Park, it’s a calm and special location for dinner.

    The set menus are based on the harvest of whatever’s growing in the nursery and garden. The dishes are prepared simply and elegantly.

    Dine outside in nice weather, with views of the impressive edible garden or inside the giant greenhouse, designed by famous Dutch agency Piet Boon, with views of the nursery – (when we were there, there were around 13 varieties of tomatoes, hanging melons and more to gaze at).

    Recipe from Head Chef, Bas Wiegel

    In summer months, up to around 85% of each dish is grown on the premises. Head Chef Bas Wiegel lends us a recipe he’s made recently – the cauliflower, garlic and kale are grown by De Kas.

    Crème of Roasted Cauliflower, Salted Anchovy & Marinated Cavolo Nero Crostini

    ingredients

    for the crème

    • 1 small cauliflower
    • 2 twigs thyme
    • 1/2 cup olive oil
    • sea salt + black pepper to taste

    for the crostini

    The base for a good crostini is the quality of the bread. Fresh is best!

    • loaf of sourdough bread
    • clove of fresh garlic, peeled
    • extra virgin olive oil
    • sea salt
    • for every crostino, 1 fillet of salted anchovy
    • head of cavolo nero, blanched
    • garlic gremolata (finely chopped garlic, fried on high heat while slowly stirring until golden brown and dried on a towel)

    preparation

    1.

    Clean the cauliflower and slice it into equal parts. Place into a baking dish with a bit of water (just enough to coat the base of the cauliflower) and add the thyme. Cover with aluminum foil. Put the baking dish in a 375°F oven for about 20 minutes until the cauliflower is soft. Blitz the cauliflower in a food processor and slowly drizzle in the olive oil until a smooth crème forms. Season with salt to taste.

    2.

    Slice the sourdough bread into the shape you want. Put some olive oil on the bread. Toast until crispy under the broiler (about 2 minutes on each side). Take care that the bread is crispy on the outside but not completely dry on the inside. (That’s not so nice to eat).

    3.

    When the bread is crispy, scrape the clove of garlic over it. Spread the cauliflower crème over the crostini. Portion the anchovy together with the cavolo nero on top. Finish with a little bit of salt, black pepper, a sprinkle of olive oil and the gremolata.

    Topping Rose House

    Bridgehampton, NY | 1 Bridgehampton Sag Harbor Turnpike | 631.537.0870

    Tom Colicchio recently opened a farm-to-table restaurant in the new The Topping Rose House in Bridgehampton. It’s been a tough seat to get this season, but totally worth it.

    The property’s one-acre farm, tended to by local farmer Jeff Negron, is the source of produce for the restaurant and inspires the seasonal menu. The hotel also offers farm tours, where guests are allowed to pick their own ingredients, which are then highlighted in a dish on the restaurant's menu.

    It's so produce driven here that proteins are written in smaller font beneath the vegetable they accompany on the menu. In addition, guests are always welcomed to their rooms with seasonal snacks highlighting the bounty from the farm.

    All photos by Michael Weber, except for exterior shot, which is by Tim Street-Porter.

    From the Topping Rose House Kitchen

    Tom Colicchio and chef de cuisine Ty Kotz share a recipe from their kitchen.

    Vegetable Ragu with Farm Egg & Consommé

    ingredients

    makes 4

    for the eggs

    • 4 of the best quality farm eggs you can find

    for the bread

    • 1 baguette, cut into ¼ inch thick pieces on a bias so they are at a long angle
    • 1 clove garlic

    for the vegetables

    • 2 small tomatoes, diced
    • 8 baby carrots, peeled and cut into small rounds
    • 1/2 cup green “fresh” chickpeas, removed from pod
    • 2 baby leeks, washed and cut across into thin rounds
    • 1/2 cup English peas, peeled
    • 10 snow peas, cleaned and cut in half
    • 10 sugar snap peas, clean, take off string
    • 10 spears of asparagus, washed, peeled and cut into 1 inch lengths

    for the consommé

    • 2 quarts of good quality chicken stock (preferably homemade), put in a pot to simmer, reduced in volume by half and set aside to cool
    • 4 egg whites
    • 1 stick celery
    • 1 large carrot, peeled
    • 1 onion, rough cut into chunks
    • 1 teaspoon tomato paste
    • 5 basil leaves
    • 10 sprigs tarragon

    preparation

    1.

    For the eggs: In a small pot big enough for one egg at a time, add 3 inches of water and a dash of white vinegar. Bring to a simmer. First, rack each egg into its own small bowl. Slide one egg at a time from the small bowl into the simmering water, do in batches of one egg each time. Let simmer until egg is soft poached about 1 minute. As eggs finish, keep them in a warm spot on the stove in a small bowl. You can rewarm them in a little consommé before you plate.

    2.

    For the toast: Grill the bread. Rub with a peeled garlic clove.

    3.

    For the vegetables: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt the water heavily. Set up a large bowl full of ice water. Individually boil each type of the vegetable till tender, remove from pot and shock in ice water till completely cool. Keep all vegetables separate until ready to use.

    4.

    For the consommé: Whisk the egg whites in a metal bowl until they form medium peaks. Set aside. In a food processor, pulse the carrots, celery and onions until they are chopped but not puréed. Fold the vegetables and tomato paste into the egg whites. In a pot, add mixture to cooled reduced stock and stir to mix together. Turn on pot and bring to a simmer. All ingredients will float to the top to form a “raft”. As soon as pot simmers turn it down to its lowest setting on the burner and let sit for 45 minutes. Simmer very slowly. Set up a strainer lined with cheesecloth or clean dish towel, add the tarragon and basil leaves to this setup. As you ladle the liquid over the herbs it will make the consommé aromatic. Slowly ladle liquid into the strainer, being very careful not to agitate the raft. Season liquid as needed with salt.

    5.

    To plate the dish: Heat all vegetables and consommé in a small pot. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Separately reheat the eggs in a little hot broth. Start by placing the vegetables in the serving bowl, enough for 1 serving each. Top each with the egg. Add sea salt and black pepper on the egg as garnish. Serve the toast on the side.

    TA Men's Program

    For your man to get in shape, Tracy Anderson has launched The Men's Program at her Tribeca and Studio City locations.

    Blue Hill at Stone Barns

    Pocantico Hills, NY | 630 Bedford Rd. | 914.366.9600

    Photo: Annabel Braithwait

    Photo: Jen Munkvold

    Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, just 25 miles north of NYC, is a nonprofit farm and education center. It’s really a special place to visit for adults and kids alike. In addition to offering tours of the farm with a description of how it runs, there are a number of activities for visitors, with the intention of helping them become more engaged eaters.

    left: Photo: Annabel Braithwaite right: Photo: Peter Zander bottom: Photo: Nicole Franzen

    You can help farmers collect eggs, pick up a farm bingo card and explore the vegetable fields or sign up for a farm-to-table cooking class. They are also courses and training offered here for those pursuing careers in farming.

    Photo: Ira Lipsky

    Photo: Jonathan Young

    Blue Hill restaurant opened at Stone Barns in 2004, and sources ingredients from the surrounding fields and pastures.

    Roasted Mountain Magic tomatoes, grown and harvested by Stone Barns Center.

    There are no menus at the restaurant. Diners are instead offered ‘Farmer’s Feasts’, multi-course meals featuring the best of what’s been harvested. In addition to using produce, eggs and meat from Stone Barns, Blue Hill is committed to supporting local farms and sustainable agriculture by sourcing ingredients from nearby Hudson Valley producers.

    Some shots from our visit to Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

    Recipe from Dan Barber

    Dan Barber, executive chef and co-owner of Blue Hill, shares a recipe of a dish you could expect to find at the restaurant.

    Tomato Burgers

    These tomato burgers are served as an hors d'oeuvre. And, while there are a few steps here, they’re actually pretty easy to make.

    ingredients

    for buns

    • 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon almond flour
    • 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
    • 3/4 cup confectioners sugar
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt
    • 4 large egg whites, lightly beaten
    • 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

    for tomato filling

    • 2 medium tomatoes
    • 1/4 cup drained sun-dried tomatoes in oil, finely chopped
    • 2 tablespoons shallot, finely chopped
    • 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

    for goat-cheese filling

    • 1/3 cup soft mild goat cheese at room temperature
    • 3 tablespoons mascarpone
    • 1 tablespoon chives, finely chopped

    to serve

    • 24 small basil leaves

    preparation

    1.

    For the buns: Preheat oven to 325ºF, lightly butter muffin cups (a mini-muffin pan with 24 [1/8-cup] cups is recommended). Whisk together all dry ingredients. Whisk egg whites into dry ingredients until combined. Add oil in a slow stream, whisking constantly. Divide batter among muffin cups. Bake until pale golden and springy to the touch, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool in pan for 5 minutes. Remove buns and cool completely on a rack.

    2.

    For the tomato filling: Cut a shallow X in the bottom of each fresh tomato. Blanch in a saucepan of boiling water 30 seconds, then transfer to an ice bath. When cool, peel and seed tomatoes. Cut into 1/4 inch dice. Stir diced tomatoes together with sun-dried tomatoes, shallot, vinegar, and season with salt and pepper.

    3.

    Stir together goat cheese, mascarpone, chives and a pinch of salt.

    4.

    Halve each bun horizontally, then fill sandwich with 1 teaspoon tomato filling, a basil leaf, and 1 teaspoon cheese filling. Buns can be baked 1 day ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature. Tomato and goat-cheese fillings can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.

    * These recipes have not been tested by the goop test kitchen.

    This week’s goop collaboration

    http://www.goop.com/shop/
    Advertisement

    Henne Kirkeby Kro

    Strandvejen, Denmark | 234, 6854 Henne | +45 75255400

    With perhaps the largest kitchen garden in Denmark, Michelin-starred chef Paul Cunningham and team gather veggies and herbs from the 4,000 square feet of fields just outside the kitchen door for their Nordic-inspired menu. The restaurant is located in an inn dating back to 1790, which still looks like a farmhouse from the outside. The recently-renovated (as of June 2013) interior houses an impressive photography collection, a few design-focused guest rooms and the 12-seat restaurant.

    The Restaurant at Meadowood

    St. Helena, CA | 900 Meadowood Ln. | 707.967.1205

    Photos courtesy of The Restaurant at Meadowood.

    You can't talk about Napa these days without talking about Christopher Kostow and The Restaurant at Meadwood. Kostow is doing amazing things with ingredients from the restaurant’s on-site garden, supplemented by produce, meat and fish from as close as possible for his haute Californian tasting menus.

    Some shots from a recent meal at Meadowood.

    A bit further away...

    While not grown directly on the premises, the following restaurants have their own farms nearby to supply them with the freshest ingredients.

    L'Arpège

    Paris | 84 Rue de Varenne | +33 1 47 05 09 06

    Alain Passard's iconic Parisian restaurant began the trend of vegetable-based haute cuisine back in the 90's and has been continuing with three Michelin stars ever since. His farm, outside of Paris, is run without the use of any mechanical equipment, but rather the fields are horse-plowed and veggies hand-planted and harvested.

    Bacchanalia

    Atlanta, GA | 1198 Howell Mill Rd. | 404.365.0410

    Chef/owners of this celebrated Atlanta restaurant, Anne Quatrano and Clifford Harrison, own nearby Summerland Farms, which supplies the tasting menus with its seasonal bounty.

    Meriwether's

    Portland, OR | 2601 NW Vaughn St. | 503.228.1250

    This Portland restaurant was so concerned with cooking with the freshest ingredients that they decided to grow them. Their five-acre farm, Skyline, is located just 12 miles from the restaurant.

    Openings

    Intriguing store openings, various locations.

    Isabel Marant, London

    Jenni Kayne, Montecito

    Proenza Schouler, NY

    House of Hackney, London

    Church's, Chicago

    Scrapbook

    Private

    Giancarlo Giammetti, who helped start and run the Valentino house, has always taken photographs of friends through the years, from Jackie Onassis to Michael Jackson and more. It's cool to see all his snaps in one book.

    Visiting Art Museums with Kids

    We talked to Amy Boyle, Education Manager at the wonderful Noguchi Museum in New York, to get some tips on how to make viewing art with your kids as enriching an experience as it can be.

    Q:

    When you have a group of kids at the museum, where do you start? Any questions or discussion starters to get the ball rolling?

    A: The methodology that we use is called inquiry and we generally start by asking "what" questions like "what do you notice?" Set the discussion so they feel they already have the tools for it. With figurative art especially, it's great to imagine it as a story - who are the characters, what's happening in the scene, what are the visual clues that are telling you that story?

    With abstract art it's harder to "read," so I start out with physical characteristics - what you see. And then we move on from how those things make you feel. Ask about the visual cues like shape, color, texture, and then, "if this were a person, what kind of person would it be?" Trying to make abstract art more narrative is a good approach. In short, you are "scaffolding" the discussion: starting on one level and then building on what the kids say to move up to the next.

    You always want to find what we call "hooks" or "connections" that are the things that make kids excited. For instance at the Noguchi Museum, there is a great Noguchi sculpture that's made from basalt, and talking about the material can often hook kids into a piece. TFor example, they learn that basalt is a rock formed by cooled lava, that it's from a volcano (which is very cool to a kid) and they get excited to talk more about the piece.

    Another strategy is to think of your own questions about the work. I like to start with "I wonder" statements--"I wonder how the artist made this?," for example, and then start piecing the answers together. I call it playing "art detective" and it's often a good strategy.

    Q:

    Association is a very natural method to fall into when looking at abstract art with kids (seeing a round sculpture with a hole in it and saying "that looks like a donut," for example) but how do you push past that initial point of engagement?

    A: We call what you just described "cloud-naming." Even if it's a fun thing to think about, it helps to take the discussion beyond this point because it can be a conversation stopper. Try to get them to see what they're really looking at first before addressing what it reminds them of. Or, if they do say "it looks like a donut," then say "why does it look like a donut?" Take them back to the visual cues - to the shape and color, etc.

    Q:

    Are there any activities you can do before the museum to enrich the experience once there?

    A: Many museum websites have resources you don't know about, drop-in classes, materials to take into the galleries, etc. A "celebrity" factor is always good: showing them a painting or sculpture before going gets them really involved and excited. There are also many great children's books that introduce art concepts in really fun, playful ways.

    Online Resources

    LACMA's Families and Children in American Art online game is a great intro to the collection.

    Centre Pompidou and Gallimard Jeunesse have a Pompidou Kids app.

    There are many online games for kids in the Met's Kids Zone.

    The Tate has a great kids website to get them excited about their visit.

    Even while the SFMOMA is closed for renovation, kids can still get familiar with the collection on this cute game led by two dogs.

    The MoMA always has the most beautifully printed family guides available. The guide on color is a classic.

    Kids Art Books

    There are many books that make for great resources, and you can use their language when in the museum and after.

    Art & Lots of Dots
    by Ginett Alarcón, Marisa Mena, and Yonel Hernández
    8-9 years

    Architecture According to Pigeons
    by Speck Lee Tailfeather
    7 and older

    Away We Go!: A Shape and Seek Book
    by Chieu Anh Urban
    2-3 years

    The Dot and the Line
    by Norton Juster
    Preschool - 7

    Mouse Paint
    by Ellen Stoll Walsh
    2 - 3 years

    I am Blop!
    by Hervé Tullet
    2-5 years

    The Art Book For Children Vol. 2
    by Amanda Renshaw
    7 and up

    All About Collage
    by Todd Oldham
    5 and up

    The Big Book of Anorak
    by Cathy Olmedillas
    5 and up

    Here are a few upcoming exhibitions that we think kids will love.

    Robert Indiana: Beyond Love at The Whitney Museum

    New York | through January 5, 2014

    Robert Indiana (b. 1928), The Sweet Mystery, 1959-60. Oil on canvas, 72 × 60 in. Private collection. ©2013 Morgan Art Foundation, Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

    Momo says this piece looks like an alligator eating stripes in the dark.

    The Noguchi Museum

    Long Island City

    Amy's museum, the Noguchi, is a beautiful place to visit. Dedicated to the work of Japanese-American artist Isamu Noguchi, the abstract sculptures and Japanese rock garden are great to see with kids. For parents, the shop carries some special treats, including the famous Akari light sculptures that Noguchi designed.

    Also, their family programs website has great resources, including a list of books and tips for visiting with your family.

    Calder and Abstraction: From Avant-Garde to Iconic at LACMA

    Los Angeles | November 24, 2013–July 27, 2014

    Back over to Momo, who says this Calder mobile looks like beams coming out of the ceiling and the sun shining down on a flower and that he would like to see it in person because it looks cool.

    Henri Matisse: The Cut-Outs at Tate Modern

    London | April 17 – September 7 2014

    Henri Matisse, The Snail 1953 © Succession Henri Matisse/DACS 2010

    This exhibit of Matisse’s cut-outs makes a great tie-in with an at-home project inspired by the exhibition.

    Andy Goldsworthy: Tree Fall in the Presidio

    San Francisco | Tree Fall, opening October 19, 2013

    Andy Goldsworthy, Tree Fall, 2013 (installation view); photo: Jan Stürmann/FOR-SITE Foundation

    Take the kids outdoors to experience and interact with Goldsworthy's new large-scale installation. Get them used to land art young.

    For All Our Faraway Friends

    Advertisement
    Download the goop City Guides App

    Also available on goop

    cognac felix ankle boot

    Loeffler Randall for goop

    exclusive kids orange and charcoal pinstripe polo t

    Busy Bees for goop

    black beckett shoulder bag

    Stella McCartney for goop

    exclusive apple and flag tea towel set

    Thornback & Peel for goop

    burnout grey pocket t shirt

    Monrow for goop

    MiH Sugarblue Marrakesh

    MiH for goop

    Advertisement

    The goop collection

    Advertisement

Advertisement