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    Marais
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    Flynn McGarry Pops Up
     
    Flynn McGarry Pops Up
     
    We've been dying to eat 15-year-old Flynn McGarry's food since we first caught wind of the dinners he was hosting in his mom's house up in The Valley. McGarry, who dropped out of school because he was being bullied (in part, for carrying around French Laundry), has been in the kitchen ever since, working at Eleven Madison Park and Alma along the way. While he's clearly picked up some tricks, this is no ordinary teen with a blow torch and a sous-vide. His food is hands-down sublime. He occasionally holds restaurant take-over events, and we lucked into a table earlier this week at L.A.'s Fifty Seven, where he turned out Beet Wellington with creamed kale and beet bordelaise, artichoke bloomed with herbs and cod, and tomato tartare, accented with pickles, pumpernickle, capers, and cured egg yolk. Quite simply, it was insane. (Plus: Check out that awesome head of hair!)
     
     
     
    4th of July Goop Cookbook Club
     
    4th of July Goop Cookbook Club
     
    A Fourth of July party just isn't a party unless everyone spends some time huddled around a grill—but this is America, after all, and there are any number of interpretations of what American food is all about. This is just one of the reasons we were excited to dig into Edward Lee's much-lauded Smoke & Pickles—a cookbook filled with iconic Southern dishes, all with a uniquely Korean spin. There are very few pages that we haven't earmarked to try (fried trout sandwiches, vietnamese lamb chops, miso smothered chicken...), but we winnowed it down to a handful of hits for our Fourth of July party below. And for good measure, almost every recipe includes at least a dash of bourbon. Speaking of alcohol, we had heard tell of Costco's famous wine buyer, and so ventured down to Marina del Rey to check it out and stock up. And then we found the case of super fresh seafood, and our trip took on a different tenor. As we soon learned, you may go to Costco for one thing, but you'll invariably end up with a cart full of everything else, from Stride Rite kids socks, to razors, to coconut water, to a Vitamix blender, to some beach reading. If you missed the first edition of the goop Cookbook Club, you can catch up here.
     
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    Here, everything we made—with a few goopified shortcuts.

    All recipes are reprinted with permission from Smoke & Pickles—our notations are in TEAL.
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    Adobo-Fried Chicken & Waffles

    Feeds 6

    This is Filipino adobo, not the Spanish version. The vinegar brightens the richness of the fried chicken and helps with digestion. Add more or fewer chiles, depending on how much heat you like.

    • WAFFLES:
    • 1 cup all-purpose flour
    • 1 teaspoon sugar
    • 1 teaspoon baking powder
    • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
    • ¼ teaspoon paprika
    • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
    • 2 large eggs
    • 1 cup buttermilk
    •  
    • DIPPING SAUCE:
    • ¼ cup water
    • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
    • 2 tablespoons maple syrup
    • 2 tablespoons fish sauce
    • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
    • 2 fresh Thai bird or habanero peppers, thinly sliced
    • ADOBO BROTH:
    • 2 ½ cups distilled white vinegar
    • 1 ½ cups water
    • 3 garlic cloves, finely minced
    • 4 bay leaves
    • 1 ½ teaspoons black peppercorns
    • 1 teaspoon sugar
    • ¼ cup soy sauce
    • ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
    • 1 teaspoon salt
    •  
    • FRIED CHICKEN:
    • 2 pounds chicken, thighs and/or drumsticks, plus wings if desired
      (do not use breasts)
    • Salt
    • 2 cups buttermilk
    • 1 cup all-purpose flour
    • 1 teaspoon paprika
    • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    • About 8 cups peanut oil for deep-frying


    To make the waffles: Preheat your waffle maker and lightly oil it. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, paprika, and black pepper. In a small bowl, whisk together the melted butter, eggs, and buttermilk. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients a little at a time, whisking constantly.

    Cook the waffles according to your waffle maker’s instructions. Cut the waffles into 2-inch-wide wedges and reserve on a plate at room temperature or keep warm in a low oven until ready to serve.

    To make the dipping sauce: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (The sauce is delicious, though we also served some plain, old-fashioned maple syrup with the waffles too.)

    To make the adobo broth: In a large pot, combine all the ingredients, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer for 5 minutes, then turn the heat down as low as it will go.

    Arrange the chicken pieces on a work surface and season them with salt. Add the chicken pieces to the gently simmering broth, cover, and poach for 15 minutes, turning once halfway through. You want the chicken to poach gently and stay moist while picking up the flavor of the broth, so make sure the liquid does not get hotter than a gentle simmer. Turn off the heat and allow the chicken to cool in the liquid, covered, about 20 minutes.

    Remove the chicken pieces from the adobo broth (discard the broth) and transfer to a plate lined with paper towels. Pat dry.

    To fry the chicken: Pour the buttermilk into a large shallow bowl. In another bowl, combine the flour, 1 teaspoon salt (we used 1 tablespoon of salt), the paprika, and the pepper. Dip each chicken piece in the buttermilk, shake off any excess liquid, dredge in the flour mixture, turning to coat, and transfer to a large plate. The flour coating will turn a little soft—that’s a good thing.

    Meanwhile, fill a large, deep cast-iron skillet about half-full with peanut oil. Heat the oil to 365°F. Cook the chicken pieces 2 or 3 at a time for 8 to 10 minutes, turning every minute or so, depending on how thick the pieces of chicken are; wings will cook faster and drumsticks will take the longest. Be sure to keep the oil temperature at around 350 to 365°F. The chicken is cooked when the internal temperature reaches at least 165°F. Using tongs, lift the chicken out of the oil and drain on paper towels. Season again with a little salt, and transfer to a platter.

    Serve the fried chicken with the waffle pieces and dipping sauce. Eat it hot!

    • Spinach Salad with Spiced Pecans, Lamb Bacon, Clemson Blue Cheese, and Bourbon Vinaigrette

      Feeds 4

    • BOURBON VINAGRETTE:
    • ¼ cup bourbon
    • ¾ cup olive oil (we only used 1/4 cup + 2 tablespoons of oil for a 3:1 ratio to the vinegar)
    • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
    • 1 tablespoon maple syrup
    • ¼ teaspoon sea salt
    • ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
    • SALAD:
    • 8 ounces Lamb Bacon, cut into small cubes
    • 8 ounces spinach
    • ½ cup pecans (we toasted ours for extra-crunch)
    • 1 green apple, cored and cut into matchsticks
    • 1 breakfast radish, sliced into thin rounds
    • 4 ounces Clemson blue cheese or other mild blue cheese, crumbled
    •  
    • LAMB BACON:
    • 1 cup kosher salt
    • ½ cup sugar
    • 2 pounds lamb bellies (roughly 2 pieces)
    • A handful of fresh rosemary sprigs
    • Hickory wood chips, soaked in warm water


    To make the vinaigrette: Start by pouring the bourbon into a small saucepan and bringing it to a boil over medium heat. Be careful, because the alcohol in the bourbon could ignite. If that happens, to tamp out the flame, simply put a tight-fitting lid over the pot—the lack of oxygen will suffocate the flame; remove the lid after a few seconds. Boil to reduce the liquid to about 2 tablespoons. Transfer the bourbon to a ramekin and refrigerate until well-chilled.

    Combine the olive oil, vinegar, maple syrup, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in the reduced bourbon. Keep refrigerated; bring to room temperature when ready to use.

    To make the salad: Put the lamb bacon in a small skillet and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat just until it becomes crispy on the outside, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel to drain what little fat will render from the bacon.

    Combine the remaining salad ingredients in a large bowl and add the lamb bacon. Toss gently with the bourbon vinaigrette and serve immediately.

    To make the lamb bacon: Combine the salt and sugar in a bowl. Trim the bellies of any loose pieces of fat or sinew and rub the salt-sugar cure all over them. Layer the bellies in a shallow dish with the skin side down, adding some rosemary sprigs between each layer. Sprinkle the extra cure and the last of the rosemary over the top and put in the back of the refrigerator. Leave uncovered for 2 days; the bellies will absorb the salt and leach out liquid.

    After the 2 days, remove the bellies from the cure and discard the rosemary. Rinse the bellies from the cure and discard the rosemary. Rinse the bellies under cold water and transfer to a large tub. Cover with cold water and soak for 2 hours.

    Light your charcoal grill. Remove the bellies from the water and pat dry on paper towels.

    Place some soaked wood chips right on top of the hot coals; 2 handfuls of chips should be enough. Once the wood begins to smoke, fit the grill rack over the chips. Scatter another handful of soaked wood chips over the grill rack and place the lamb bellies skin side down over the wood chips. This prevents the bellies from cooking directly on the hot metal grill rack. Cover the grill and smoke the lamb bellies for 2 to 3 hours. Monitor the temperature—it should stay between 160 and 200°F—and add more wood chips to the hot coals if necessary. The bellies are done when they are slightly blackened; the flavor will be smoky but mild, and the meat will have a little resistance but ultimately will give way in your mouth as you bite into it.

    Chill the bacon in your refrigerator before slicing it and using it in any dish where you would use pork bacon. To store it, wrap each belly individually in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to a week or in the freezer for up to a month.

    White Pear Kimchi

    Makes 1 tightly packed gallon jar

    This kimchi is vegan-friendly and very mild, as it has neither fish sauce nor chile pepper flakes. It is traditionally served only in summer. This is also one kimchi that you can serve right out of the container as a salad course.

    • CABBAGE:
    • 1 large Napa cabbage (4 to 5 pounds)
    • 6 quarts water
    • 1 cup kosher salt
    •  
    • PASTE:
    • 3 cups water
    • ½ cup sweet rice flour
    • 1/3 cup sugar
    •  
    • GUTS:
    • 1 cup chopped onions
    • 1 Asian pear (about 10 ounces), peeled, cored, and diced
    • 8 ounces daikon radish, grated (use a box grater)
    • 1 4-ounce piece ginger, grated (use a Microplane)
    • ¼ cup kosher salt
    • 2 teaspoons ground coriander
    • 1 ½ teaspoons ground fennel
    •  
    • 1 small head broccoli, trimmed and cut into bite-sized florets
    • 2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ribbons
    • 2 yellow bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ribbons
    • 4 serrano or jalapeno peppers, thinly sliced
    • ½ cup pine nuts
    White pear kimchi


    Slice the cabbage lengthwise into quarters. Cut out the core and discard it. Put the cabbage into a large container and add the water and salt. Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours; drain and rinse.

    Coarsely chop the cabbage into approximately 2-inch strips. Tranfer to a large bowl.

    To make the paste: Combine the water, rice flour, and sugar in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Allow to cool while you make the guts.

    To make the guts: Combine the onions, pear, daikon, ginger, garlic, salt, coriander, and ground fennel in a food processor and process to a course puree.

    Fold the guts into the cooled paste. Add the broccoli, red and yellow peppers, Serrano peppers, and pine nuts.

    Wearing clean latex gloves, mix the guts mixture thoroughly into the cabbage. Transfer to a gallon glass jar or airtight plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours, then refrigerate. The kimchi will be ready to eat in 4 or 5 days, and will keep for another 2 weeks.

    Rice Bowl with Salmon, Endive, Shiitake, and Tasso Remoulade

    Rice Bowl with Salmon, Endive, Shiitake, and Tasso Rémoulade

    Feeds 4-6

    Tasso is the famous spice-cured pork shoulder from Louisiana. It has a very distinctive cayenne-pepper-and-smoke flavor. If you can’t find tasso, use any cured ham and add a pinch of cayenne and a few turns of freshly ground black pepper to the mix.

    • TASSO RÉMOULADE
    • ½ teaspoon olive oil
    • 4 ounces tasso ham (or any other aged ham, such as prosciutto), very finely diced
    • 5 teaspoons Perfect Rémoulade
    •  
    • MARINADE:
    • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
    • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
    • 1 teaspoon sugar
    • 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger (use a Microplane)
    •  
    • TOPPING:
    • 8 ounces skinless salmon fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces
    • 2 teaspoons olive oil
    • 1 ½ ounces shiitake mushroom caps, sliced
    • 1 teaspoon soy sauce
    •  
    • 4 cups cooked rice
    •  
    • GARNISH:
    • 1 large endive, sliced lengthwise into thin spears
    • 1 ounce dried mango, sliced into very thin strips


    To make the tasso rémoulade: Heat the olive oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the tasso ham and sauté until crispy, about 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and let cool.

    Mix the rémoulade with the tasso ham in a small bowl. Reserve.

    To make the marinade: Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.

    To make the topping: Toss the salmon into the marinade, turning to coat, and marinate in the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the salmon and discard the marinade. Pat the salmon dry on paper towels. Heat a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 teaspoon of the olive oil, then add the salmon and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until nicely caramelized but still pink on the inside. Press it gently—the flesh should bounce back but not flake apart. Transfer the salmon to a warm plate. (we grilled our salmon instead)

    Add the remaining teaspoon of olive oil to the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the shiitake mushrooms and soy sauce and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the mushrooms are wilted and caramelized.

    To serve, scoop the rice into your rice bowls. Place the salmon and the shiitakes over the rice. Spoon about a tablespoon of the rémoulade over the salmon in each bowl. Garnish with a few spears of endive and a sprinkle of dried mango and serve immediately with spoons. It is best to mix everything together before enjoying.

    4th of July Goop Cookbook Club

    Perfect Rémoulade

    Makes 3 cups

    Don’t be dismayed by the long list of ingredients. All you have to do is throw them all into a bowl and mix them together. This is a master recipe, which means that once this base is done, you can flavor it any way you want. If you can, make it a day in advance; the flavors will harmonize overnight.

    • 2 large eggs
    • 1 ¼ cups mayonnaise, preferably Duke's or homemade
    • 1/3 cup finely chopped shallots
    • ½ cup chopped pickled okra (substitute chopped cornichons if you don’t have pickled okra)
    • 2 garlic cloves, grated (use a Microplane) or finely minced
    • 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish
    • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
    • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon
    • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
    • 1 ½ teaspoons grainy mustard
    • 1 teaspoon ketchup
    • ¾ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
    • ¾ teaspoon sweet paprika
    • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
    • ¾ teaspoon kosher salt
    • ½ teaspoon sugar
    • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    • Grated zest of 1 orange
    • Grated zest of 1 lemon
    • 3 dashes Tabasco sauce


    Put the eggs into a small pot of water and bring to a boil over medium heat. Boil for 4 minutes, then drain and immediately transfer to an ice bath to chill. Drain.

    Peel the soft-boiled eggs and add to a large bowl. Beat with a whisk; the yolks will still be runny. Don’t worry if it’s lumpy. Add all the remaining ingredients and mix well with a wooden spoon until the mixture is thick enough to coat the spoon but runny enough to pour out of the bowl. Transfer to a jar and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour before serving. The rémoulade will keep in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

    4th of July Goop Cookbook Club

    Imperfect Bowl of Rice

    Makes 4 large rice bowls

    The goal when cooking rice this way is to achieve a thin layer of toasted crust in the bottom of the pot. The crispy layer in contrast with the fluffy layer of rice on top is a sumptuous combination. 1 use a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. You could seek out a stone rice crock like the ones they use in Korean restaurants, but the cast-iron pan works just fine.

    • 2 cups Asian long-grain rice
    • 1 teaspoon salt


    Place the rice in a large bowl and fill the bowl with 4 cups cold water. Using your hands, stir the rice in circles until the water turns cloudy. Drain the rice in a strainer, then return to the bowl and add another 4 cups cold water. Allow the rice to soak for 30 minutes.

    Drain the rice in a strainer again and shake to release the excess water. Transfer the rice to a 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Add 3 cups cold water and the salt and give it a nice stir. Bring the water to a simmer over medium-high heat. Turn the heat as low as you can, cover the skillet with a tight-fitting lid, and cook for 18 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the rice to rest for 10 minutes, with the lid still on.

    Take the lid off the skillet, turn the heat on to medium, and cook the rice, without stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes, until the rice on the bottom of the pan turns amber and crisp. You can keep the rice warm in the skillet until you are ready to serve.

    Rice Bowl with Salmon, Endive, Shiitake, and Tasso Remoulade

    Bourbon-Pickled Jalapeños

    Makes 1½ quarts

    This recipe doesn’t require much of an explanation—it’s just good for so many reasons. I use the jalapeños as much for garnishing different dishes as I do for cocktails.

    • 1 pound jalapeño peppers
    • 1 ¼ cups distilled white vinegar
    • 1 cup bourbon
    • ½ cup honey
    • 2 teaspoons coriander seeds
    • 1 teaspoon salt
    • 1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
    • 2 bay leaves


    Wearing disposable gloves, slice the jalapeño peppers into ¼-inch-thick rounds. Transfer to a jar.

    Combine the vinegar, bourbon, honey, coriander seeds, salt, mustard seeds, and bay leaves in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes.

    Pour the hot liquid over the peppers and seal the jar with a tight-fitting lid, let cool to room temperature, and refrigerate. The peppers will be ready in 3 days, and they will keep for up to 2 weeks.

    • Seafood Boil

      Feeds 8-10

    • A seafood boil is all about abundance, lots of libations, and eating with your hands. You can serve this with fresh lemon wedges, sea salt, hot sauce, drawn butter, etc.

    • SPICE BAG:
    • 3 tablespoons cumin seeds
    • 3 tablespoons coriander seeds
    • 2 tablespoons black peppercorns
    • 1 tablespoon ground sumac
    • 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 6 quarts water
    • 2 lemons, halved
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 1 cup bourbon
    • ½ cup sea salt
    • 1 tablespoon smoked paprika
    • 2 pounds small red potatoes, scrubbed
    • 6 ears corn, shucked and cut into 1-inch-thick wheels
    • 1 pound pork sausages
    • 1 pound jumbo shrimp in the shell, head on if you can find them
    • 4 whole blue crabs
    • 8 ounces littleneck clams, scrubbed
    • 8 ounces mussels, scrubbed and debearded if necessary


    To make the spice bag: Wrap all the spices in a coffee filter or a piece of cheesecloth and tie tightly with kitchen twine.

    Bring the water to a boil in the largest pot you have, at least a 10-gallon pot. Add the spice bag, lemon halves, garlic, bourbon, salt, and paprika, and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.

    Add the potatoes and corn and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the sausages, shrimp, crabs, clams, and mussels, bring to a boil, and boil until the sausages are cooked, the clams and mussels have opened (discard any unopened ones), and the potatoes and corn are tender, another 10 to 12 minutes.

    Lift out the vegetables, sausages, and seafood and dump onto a table covered with layers of newspaper.

    Fried Green Tomato-Cilantro Relish

    Makes 2 cups

    Frying the tomatoes first gives the relish that extra depth, making it almost a meal in itself. I’ve been known to eat it with salty potato chips and beer and not regret it at all.

    • ¼ cup olive oil
    • 2 ½ pounds green tomatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick
    • ½ cup chopped onion
    • 2 garlic cloves, minced
    • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
    • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
    • ½ teaspoon sherry vinegar
    • 1 teaspoon sugar
    • ½ teaspoon ground fennel
    • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
    • 1 ¼ teaspoons salt
    • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    Fried Green Tomato-Cilantro Relish


    Heat a teaspoon of olive oil in a large skillet over high heat. Working in batches, add the slices of green tomato in a single layer and fry for about 2 minutes on each side, adding more oil as necessary. Transfer to a plate.

    When all the tomatoes are fried, add the remaining olive oil to the pan, then add the onions and garlic and cook over low heat until the onions are translucent and soft, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat.

    Finely chop the fried tomatoes and place in a medium bowl. Toss in the onion and garlic, add the cilantro, mustard, vinegar, sugar, fennel, cumin, salt, and pepper, and mix thoroughly. The relish can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

    Bourbon Sweet Tea

    Bourbon Sweet Tea

    Makes 1 large pitcher, serves 6-8

    I make this spiked sweet tea in pitchers or big Ball jars. The type of tea you use is up to you; choose your favorite. Then add a mild bourbon.

    • 3 cups water
    • ½ cup sugar
    • 2 or 3 black tea bags
    • 1 lemon, sliced into wedges
    • 1 lime, sliced into wedges
    • 1 orange, sliced into wedges
    • 1 cup bourbon
    • Lemon wheels for garnish


    To make the tea: Combine the water and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the sugar water into a jar, add the tea bags, and let steep for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how strong you want your tea. (If you like your tea very strong, leave the bags in the tea for longer.)

    Remove the tea bags and add the lemon, lime, and orange wedges. Pour in the bourbon. Cover the jar and chill.

    Serve in small glasses and garnish with thin lemon wheels.

    Photography: Matt Armendariz
    Food Stylist: Marah Abel
    Flowers: Bloom & Plume
    Blankets, Napkins & Pillows: Nickey Kehoe
     
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