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LA Update

I spent most of last spring and summer in Los Angeles doing lots of work and eating some incredible food...from the new phenomenon of the gourmet taco truck, to the tucked away neighborhood spots to the latest Suzanne Goin...the LA food is quietly and unpretentiously on fuego.

Chow down.

--- Gwyneth Paltrow

Places to Eat:


  Church and State
1850 Industrial St
Los Angeles, CA 90021
(213) 405-1434
www.churchandstatebistro.com

If you conjure a place somewhere between a classic Parisian brasserie and the Williamsburg Brooklyn of 10 years ago, you could very easily dream up this fantastic room in its eerily quiet industrial surrounds. The bartender here realizes with flair the new novelty of customized cocktails: you choose the spirit, they do the rest. I was given a concoction of vodka, cucumber, sage leaves and other surprises – it was the best drink I’ve ever had. From there I had oysters, Tarte Alsaciennes with fresh peaches, brie and arugula (these tarts change seasonally) and finished off with a roast chicken. I even succumbed to french fries in lard...the whole experience was worth a trip from the Westside.


  Gjelina
1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd
Venice, CA 90291
(310) 450-1429
www.gjelina.com

Among the super cool shops of Abbot Kinney in Venice lie two culinary gems: Gjelina is a great local spot – I love the kumamoto oysters, beautiful, bountiful veggie sides and the homemade, thin crust pizza (the jalapeño and smoked mozzarella is my fave). The simple, well-prepared California food and wine and reasonable pricing make it incredibly busy — book in advance.

Shima
1432 Abbot Kinney Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90291
(310) 314-0882

Across the street (and the spectrum) from Gjelina is Shima, a small, beautifully spare space, serving up the highest quality Japanese food imaginable – with a healthy bent. Alongside the sake menu is the fresh-pressed organic carrot juice option and the melt in your mouth sushi served on brown rice (not that you would ever know it). The lotus dish was among my favorites. Pricey but worth it.

Madeo
8897 Beverly Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 859-0242

I held my breath when I took my hardest to impress friend to Madeo – a classic Northern Italian restaurant with the best linguini al pesto outside of Liguria. The room is below ground level (not my fave) but it’s warm and clubby in an old school way. Burrata, Branzino, Gorgonzola pizza – if its good enough for the Last Emperor...


  Cecconi’s
8764 Melrose Avenue
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(310) 432-2000
www.cecconiswesthollywood.com

Instantly bustling and social, Cecconi’s opened the West Hollywood outpost of its London namesake last February and it quickly became a hotspot. The Italian-by-way-of-Cali food is housed on a very centrally located corner and open all day making it a perfect spot to meet up for breakfast, lunch, dinner or cicchetti (Italian tapas). The martinis don’t suck either...


  Tavern
11648 San Vicente Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90049
310-806-6464
www.tavernla.com

Housed in an old Hamburger Hamlet where I downed many a burger as a kid is Tavern, Suzanne Goin’s new café and restaurant. You gotta love it when the Westside scores with a chef of Goin’s calibre. The front houses a casual larder serving take away food, gourmet cheeses and picnic boxes. The dining room is in the back – try the ‘Devil’s Chicken,’ it’s delish.


  Animal
435 N. Fairfax Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 782-9225
www.animalrestaurant.com

Run by Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, recently named ‘Best New Chefs’ by Food & Wine, Animal is dedicated to well-prepared, seasonal food. A cool, minimalist, unpretentious space combines with smart, bold dishes like addictive crispy fried hominy with lime, sticky ribs glazed with balsamic vinegar and an ingenious bacon-chocolate bar. It’s a must-go for all of my meat-loving friends...


  Osteria La Buca
5210 Melrose Avenue
Hollywood, CA 90038
323.462.1900
www.osterialabuca.com

Reliably wonderful, authentic Italian food without airs or pretense. The pastas, all made in house by Mamma (literally), are particularly exceptional, especially the bucatini and the gnocchi. Great service, a big wine list, even better prices – a real gem.

Yong Su San
950 S Vermont Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90006
(213) 388-3042
www.yongsusan.com

You have to be a kimchi-loving foodie to know about, and go to, this off the beaten track Korean in, well, Koreatown. For highest novelty quotient, get a private room, where you’ll be presented with different fixed menus to choose from. Everything comes at once, covering your table with tons of small plates and bowls with tasty, interesting preparations – spicy salads, delicate noodles, stewed and barbequed meats and more.

Stands & Trucks:

The Best Fish Taco in Enseneda
1650 Hillhurst Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90027
www.bestfishtacoinensenada.com

My friend James swears by these fish tacos at a small stand in Silverlake. He says they are the best fish tacos outside of Baja.

La Estrella Taco Truck
Highland View Ave. & Colorado Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90041

A little off the map in Highland Park (it’s east of East LA), La Estrella offers some of the best al pastor tacos. Worth a little drive after a trip to the Griffith Park or a Dodgers’ game.

Kogi Truck
kogibbq.com

There’s been a lot of hype about these Korean tacos trucks that wander all around LA and that people find through an almost obsessive devotion to Kogi’s Twitter updates. Behind the buzz is outrageously good food. The tacos feature Korean-style barbequed meats or tofu on great corn tortillas, all topped with some sort-of cilantro, chili, sesame magic. The sliders and kimchi quesadillas are also killer.

Places to Drink:


  The Varnish
118 East Sixth St.
Downtown Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.622.9999
www.thevarnishbar.com

A very cool ‘speakeasy’ located in the back room of Cole’s French Dip (LA’s oldest restaurant, birthplace of the French Dip sandwich and an undisputed institution). Established by the guys behind New York’s famed Milk and Honey bar, the relaxed atmosphere gives way to very serious, thoughtfully prepared cocktails.